JetSet

Published on October 24th, 2017 | by Daniel Sherman Fernandez

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Moritz Grossmann ATUM Pure Skull Limited Edition

This ATUM Pure Skull is a new creation from Moritz Grossmann’s ATUM Pure line characterised by focused precision, forming the perfect framework for a motif dial.

As was the case with the ATUM Pure M and L, the face of the watch features two prominently designed rings for the minute and hour indications. In place of the “Mesh” and “Long Hole” dial inserts, the ATUM Pure Skull showcases a stylised skull in its centre. It is a proprietary design that reveals interesting glimpses of the calibre 201.1 movement.

The skull is milled and wire-cut with electrical discharge machines in the manufacture, its surface polished or sandblasted to match the case, and then assembled with the remaining dial elements. This individualised manufacturing approach lends itself to dials with other popular motifs or heraldic symbols.

The hands are manually crafted in the manufacture as well. For the ATUM Pure Skull, the lance-shaped stainless steel hands are filled with black HyCeram to coordinate with the markers.

A glance through the display back reveals the calibre 201.1 with the Pure-Classic finish. It was specially designed to be cased in stainless steel. The German silver plates are shot-peened with glass beads for enhanced aesthetic appeal. Shot peening matts the surface, making it highly sensitive. Great care must be taken in the assembly phase for this reason.

The white sapphire bearing jewels, a Grossmann hallmark, are pressed directly into the plate. The movement screws are polished flat and retain their original steel hue. Endowed with the Grossmann balance, the Grossmann winder with pusher, the modified Glashüttestopwork, and the Grossmann micrometer screw, this calibre highlights the manufacture’s typical features as well as Grossmann’s pure watchmaking artistry.

The ATUM Pure Skull is available with stainless steel and blackened stainless steel cases. Both versions come in limited 10-watch editions.

Technical details

Movement

Manufacture calibre 201.1, manually wound, adjusted in five positions

No. of parts: 187

Diameter: 36.4 mm, height: 5.0 mm

Jewels: 20

Escapement: Lever escapement

Oscillator: Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia and 2 poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring

Balance: Diameter 14.2 mm, frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour

Power reserve: 42 hours when fully wound

Features: Grossmann balance; handsetting override and start of movement with lateral pusher; space-saving modified Glashüttestopwork with backlash; adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on a cantilevered balance cock; pillar movement with 2/3 plate and frame pillars in untreated German silver; separately removable clutch winding mechanism; stop seconds for handsetting

Functions

Hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop seconds, Grossmann manual winder with pusher

Operating elements

Crown for winding the watch and setting the time, pusher to start the movement

Case

Three-part, stainless steel or stainless steel black

Diameter: 41.0 mm, height: 11.35 mm

Dial

Six-part, stainless steel, stainless steel insert

Hands: Manually crafted, polished stainless steel with HyCeram filling

Crystal and display back: Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side

Strap

Hand-stitched alligator strap with prong buckle in stainless steel

Versions

ATUM Pure Skull, Reference MG-001551

Case: stainless steel

Dial: six-part, black, markers with grey HyCeram filling, Skull flat polished

Hands: Manually crafted, steel, polished, hour and minute hands with black HyCeram filling

Edition: Limited to 10 watches worldwide

ATUM Pure Skull, Reference MG-001552

Case: stainless steel

Dial: six-part, black and grey, markers with grey HyCeram filling, Skull shot-peened

Hands: Manually crafted, steel, polished, hour and minute hands with black HyCeram filling

Edition: Limited to 10 watches worldwide


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