Published on May 20th, 2016 | by Daniel Sherman Fernandez0
Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chrono – Limited Edition
This new L.U.C Perpetual Chrono from Chopard combines a hand-wound chronograph and a finely crafted perpetual calendar within an unprecedented L.U.C movement, Calibre 3.10-L. Issued in two series of 20 pieces in “Fairmined” 18-carat white gold and in “Fairmined” 18-carat rose gold, it is intended for watchmaking connoisseurs and devotees of exceptional objects.
Entirely developed and produced in the Chopard Haute Horlogerie workshops, L.U.C Calibre 03.10-L is built around a column wheel that controls all chronograph operations including the flyback function. The zero-reset system for the counters and the central sweep seconds hand is handled by progressive-contact hammers guaranteeing optimal precision. It ensures smooth yet firm activation of the timing-related components via a vertical coupling clutch. This was the exceptional base mechanism chosen to house the perpetual calendar of the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono.
This calendar is recognisable by its large twin-aperture date display, complemented by indications of the day and whether or not it is a leap year, while the finishing touches are set by a day/night indication and an orbital moon-phase display. The latter guarantees graphic and accurate readings of the age of the moon, with a mere one-day deviation in 122 years.
Since the original configuration of this calendar uses the same areas as the chronograph – both involving indications at 3 and 9 o’clock – the architecture of the perpetual calendar had to be adjusted to offset the day/night indicator by a few millimetres. This arrangement determined the specific layout of the dial and its counters.
The L.U.C Perpetual Chrono has earned double certification. The rating precision of its L.U.C Calibre 03.10-L has been certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). In parallel, each of these 20 watches in “Fairmined” gold – including both their movements and their cases – has successfully met the evaluation criteria of the Poinçon de Genève, which now encompass the watch in its entirety, providing an excellent guarantee of superlative craftsmanship and expertise.
The L.U.C Perpetual Chrono stems from high standards embodied in exceptional materials effectively underpinning its elegance and functionality.
The 45 mm case of the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is entirely made of “Fairmined” 18-carat gold, sourced from Fairmined certified mining cooperatives in Columbia, Peru and Bolivia. The L.U.C Perpetual Chrono in white gold is the first L.U.C watch being produced out of 18-carat « Fairmined » white gold by Chopard.
The dial of the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is coated with grey ruthenium. It is adorned with a hand-guilloché motif that creates subtle light effects radiating from the large twin-aperture date display.
The L.U.C Calibre 03.10-L is made of nickel silver, a naturally light grey alloy that ideally lends itself to surface treatment but cannot tolerate scratches. Any mistake made in executing the Côtes de Genève motif, circular-graining, satin-brushing and polishing operation omnipresent on the moment is irretrievable.
This movement thus calls for the most expert hands exercising their craft in the watchmaking workshops of Chopard Manufacture.
The strap of the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is made of hand-sewn large-scaled vegetal tanned alligator leather. Given that a L.U.C watch will be admired from every angle, Chopard has also made the lining in chestnut brown small-scaled alligator leather.
Model: L.U.C Perpetual Chrono
Ref. 161973-1001 – in “Fairmined” 18ct White Gold, 20-Piece Limited Edition
Ref. 161973-5001 – in “Fairmined” 18ct Rose Gold, 20-Piece Limited Edition
18ct “Fairmined” gold
Total diameter: 45 mm
Thickness: 15.06 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
18ct gold crown with L.U.C logo: 8.50 mm
Vertical satin-brushed case middle
Exhibition back with glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Hand-wound movement L.U.C 03.10-L
Total diameter: 33.00 mm
Thickness: 8.32 mm
Number of jewels: 42
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours
Nickel silver mainplate and bridges
Côtes de Genève motif adorning the bridges
Chronometer-certified by the COSC
Poinçon de Genève
Ruthenium-toned sunburst satin-brushed and hand-guilloché gold dial, with beams radiating from the date – Snailed silver-toned inner bezel ring – red and black transfers
Rhodiumed Roman numerals and hour-markers
Rhodiumed Dauphine-type hands for the hours, minutes, small seconds, day and month counters
Baton-type rhodiumed red-tipped sweep-seconds hand
Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock
Large date at 12 o’clock
Days of the week displayed at 9 o’clock and months at 3 o’clock
Off-set day/night display at 10 o’clock and offset leap-year indication at 2 o’clock
Orbital moon display at 6 o’clock
Vertical coupling-clutch chronograph with flyback function
12-hour counter at 9 o’clock
30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
Time-setting with stop-seconds function
Hand-sewn double-sided alligator leather strap dyed with plant-based pigments (CITES certified)
Pin buckle in “Fairmined” 18 ct gold